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週五驚嚇現貨Go --- 接近完美的幾款珍稀佳釀


Dear All,

完美的酒, 需要天時, 地利, 人和. 現在"接近"完美的酒, 有機會在時間的淬煉下, 變成完美. 開瓶推薦幾款難得幾近完美的佳釀, 不僅如此, 價格還低於或非常接近國際均價, 但數量稀少, 有興趣的朋友, 請別稍有猶豫躊躇, 因為這些酒款, 稍縱即逝!!:)

1. 10 Domaine la Barroche, Chateauneuf du Pape "Pure" @已售完 
R.Parker: 99 (Wine Searcher國際均價: US$215)
The monumental 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Pure is a candidate for perfection after several more years of bottle age. It boasts an inky/ruby/purple color with extraordinary “purity,” along with notes of spring flowers, luxurious levels of black raspberry and kirsch liqueur, licorice and mulberries. Layers of flavor hit the palate with exceptional freshness and definition as well as teeth-rattling intensity and power. This extraordinary tour de force is one of the greatest wines made in the world today. It should evolve easily for 15-20+ years. I have no idea what the alcohol levels are in these cuvees, but I’m sure they are pushing 16% or more. This is a legendary wine!

The brilliant Julien Barrot has decided to produce only two cuvees of Chateauneuf du Pape from the family’s nearly 32 acres of vineyards. It is amazing what Julien has accomplished since he began working at Domaine La Barroche in deluge-plagued 2002, the year when historical floods inundated Chateauneuf du Pape on September 8 and 9. The water could not have come at a worse time since prior to that it appeared to be a superb harvest. The first great vintage produced by Barrot was 2005, and he has continued with a remarkable succession of riveting wines. One of the world’s greatest red wines is his 300 or so cases of Pure that come from a lieu-dit called Grand Pierre next to the famed Chateau Rayas. The two cuvees called Signature and Terroir are now combined into one simply called Chateauneuf du Pape (the name may change in the future). It includes an intriguing component of less than 10% 70-year-old Cinsault, which gives the wine an extraordinary fragrance as well as a delicacy that can be missing in these southern Rhone wines.
The Pure is 100% Grenache from 105-year-old vines.

2. 10 Chapoutier, Ermitage de l'Oree Blanc@NT$7,450
R.Parker: 100 (Wine Searcher國際均價: US$264)
There are 716 cases of the 2010 Ermitage de l’Oree. I have been following this cuvee since its debut vintage and this 100% Marsanne possesses more richness than most Burgundy Montrachets. Although aged in 100% new, 500-liter demi-muids, the wine reveals no evidence of oak. Honeysuckle, caramelized citrus, white peach, quince and white currant characteristics are viscous and full-bodied, yet the wine possesses striking precision and laser-like focus. This monumental effort is the most opulent and richest of all Chapoutier’s dry whites in 2010.

In November of this year, Michel Chapoutier finally made the cover of The Wine Spectator. The accompanying article said essentially the same things I had written about over twenty years ago. More importantly, I am thrilled that Chapoutier received this attention because it has long been deserved. History will record that Michel Chapoutier is a revolutionary. He is also a highly emotional man whose infectious love of primitive art, historic books, classical music and, of course, terroir and winemaking are seemingly impossible to harness. Michel Chapoutier was among the first in France to embrace the radical biodynamic agricultural teachings, for which he was initially criticized, but is now praised. He was also the first to print all his labels in Braille, something that cynics considered to be a gimmick, but ask the National Association for the Blind what they think. Coming from a famous family, but moving in a direction unlike any of its previous members, Michel Chapoutier is self-taught. What he has accomplished over the last two decades or more is one of the great wine stories of the modern era. With all his outgoing, boisterous, machine-gun-speed prose that can sometimes sound shockingly cocky, and at other times reminiscent of the famous Lebanese poet Khalil Gibran, there is never a dull moment around Chapoutier., who makes comments such as “Filtering wine is like making love with a condom,” and “Acidifying wine is like putting a suit of armor on the vineyard’s terroir, vintage character and the cepage.” Don’t blame him if his brilliant intellect and shocking vocabulary put his visitors on the defensive. Michel Chapoutier has proven through his genius, the faith of his convictions and backbreaking attention to detail in his vineyards and in the winery that a once moribund negociant (yet with significant vineyard holdings) could become a beacon of inspiration and quality for the entire world. In short, every wine consumer in the world should admire his accomplishments. All of Chapoutier’s lower level 2010 whites and basic reds have long been sold out, so to keep the tasting somewhat limited during my visit, we focused on the more recently released 2010 white and red selections parcellaires and nearly all the 2011s. As for the 2010 selection parcellaire whites, they are spectacular. Le Pavillon, once called Rochefine and owned by Jaboulet-Verchere, consists of 10 acres of pure granite in the famed Les Bessards, which is considered by many to be the single greatest terroir of Hermitage. The Ermitage Le Pavillon, which is meant to age for 50+ years, is Michel Chapoutier’s legacy, and he is confident that history will support his belief in this extraordinary wine. Michel Chapoutier is not alone in believing the 2011s may resemble a more modern day version of 1991. That vintage was largely underrated by just about everybody (except yours truly) because all the accolades and hyperbole were largely bestowed on both 1989 and 1990 (deservedly), but in the Northern Rhone 1991 turned out to be a strikingly superb vintage for Cote Rotie, Hermitage, Cornas and Condrieu. In the Southern Rhone, the vintage was largely a disaster. Following is an overview of what to expect with the inexpensive 2011 whites and reds. Most of these wines do not have the weight, power or tannic structure of the 2010s, but they are by no means diluted or wimpish wines. They tend to be charming, fruit-forward and seductive, and thus may be preferred by consumers looking for immediate gratification. Although the first few wines reviewed are Southern Rhones, they need to be covered because they are in bottle, and I did not review them in issue 203. Along with several other producers, Michel Chapoutier has helped increase the world’s attention to the long-forgotten, microscopic appellation of St.-Peray. Chapoutier produces a bevy of St.-Perays under his own name as well as in partnership with two three-star chefs, Sophie Pic, of the Restaurant Pic in Valence (as well as several culinary branches in Paris and Lausanne, Switzerland), and Yannick Alleno, the brilliant chef at the Hotel Le Meurice’s in Paris. The red 2011 selections parcellaires are already fruit-forward and seductive. Readers should love them as they are much more evolved than the more structured, powerful, dense, tannic 2010s.

3. 10 Chapoutier, Ermitage Le Meal Blanc@已售完 
R.Parker: 96~98 (Wine Searcher國際均價: US$187)
The 2010 Ermitage Le Meal Blanc, which comes from a warmer site, displays more tropical fruit, with loads of red currants intermixed with mango, orange marmalade, and exotic Asian scents. Dense, full-bodied, intense and rich, this is the most voluptuous and opulent of the blockbuster selections parcellaires whites of 2010. It should drink well for 30-35 years.

As I have written many times, all of these wines are produced from rigidly cultivated, bio-dynamically managed vineyards. That has been the rule since Michel Chapoutier first took over this firm in the late 1980s. Now, with over 20 years of biodynamic viticulture under his belt, Chapoutier remains committed to this rather radical style of organic farming. He believes the effect is to reduce rot in damp, rainy vintages. Moreover, he has observed that after 10 to 15 years of biodynamic farming, the natural acids tend to be more vivid and the overall pH of the soils (as well as the wines) has dropped. Controversial, outspoken and brutally candid, Chapoutier, who suffers no fools, continues to admirably produce wines that are among the finest in the world and potentially the longest lived. Refusing to acidify, chaptalize, or touch the wines in any way, he clearly wants every wine to capture the very essence of its terroir and vintage personality. In this, he succeeds remarkably. No one has made more effort in resurrecting the once-forgotten backwater appellation of St.-Peray than Michel Chapoutier. Working in conjunction with the famed Michelin three-star restaurant family, the Pics, Chapoutier has produced a sensational 2010 Gamme Pic and Chapoutier St.-Peray, and the first single-vineyard St.-Peray, the 2010 Lieu-Dit Peyrolles St.-Peray, which is one of the greatest St.-Perays I have ever tasted. This appellation is all steep hillside vineyards planted in pure, decomposed granite soils, not dissimilar from Hermitage, but they are located on the other side of the Rhone, facing the city of Valence. The single-vineyard wines, or selections parcellaires, 2010 whites are absolutely amazing, with production levels ranging from 300 to 700 or 800 cases of each cuvee. These wines are for true connoisseurs, as they are expensive and meant for long, long evolutions, but they capture the essence of a vintage and terroir as well as any wines in the world. As for the selections parcellaires of 2010 reds, Chapoutier likes this vintage almost as much as 2009, but feels it is very different, emphasizing more acidity and minerality, whereas 2009 is a combination of pure power, concentration and great potential longevity. Michel Chapoutier considers the 2009s, which are all in bottle, to be among the greatest wines he has ever produced, equaling his finest wines of 2006, 2003, 1999, 1990 and 1989 (his debut year).

4.07 Chapoutier, Vin de Paille l'Ermite(麥桿甜白酒,375ml)@已售完 
R.Parker: 95~97 (Wine Searcher國際均價: US$232)
Two exceptional sweet wines are Chapoutier’s Vin de Paille l’Ermite. Both the 2006 and 2007 reveal nearly unreal richness with over 150 grams of residual sugar, marmalade, honeyed fig, prune, and exotic candied fruit notes, and full-bodied, unctuously-textured personalities. It is difficult to say which is better at present, but both are capable of lasting 100 or more years.

(Not yet released)

While Michel Chapoutier produces some of the world’s greatest wines from single parcels of old vines spread throughout the northern and southern Rhone (see my ecstatic reviews of his 2007 and 2006 Chateauneuf du Papes in issue #179), he also has an impressive portfolio of value-priced wines that are often over-looked when this impressive producer is discussed. Following are some top-notch picks that all sell for exceptionally fair prices. Chapoutier has not achieved as great as success in Cornas as he has in the other northern Rhone appellations, although his Cornas wines get better with each vintage. There are four extraordinary single vineyard white wines, all of which are among the greatest dry white wines of the world. While all of them can be drunk young, they are meant for extended cellaring. Made from very small yields, they represent the essence of a varietal as well as a vineyard site. As the following notes demonstrate, 2006 was one of the greatest vintages for white wines at Chapoutier. The single vineyard selection parcellaire red wines range in production from 500 to nearly 1,000 cases. 2007 is a very good vintage for these selections, but 2006 has an edge. It is reminiscent of 1996 because of the wines’ freshness and acid levels, but Chapoutier’s 2006s are even more concentrated than his 1996s. Chapoutier’s four 2006 cuvees of single vineyard Hermitage are exquisite. Most of the yields were between 10 and 20 hectoliters per hectare, and the wines are extravagantly rich. The 2006 and 2007 luxury cuvees of Chateauneuf du Pape Croix des Bois and Chateauneuf du Pape Barbe Rac were reviewed in issue #179. They are all astounding wines, especially in 2007

以上酒款, 因為是非常優質且數量有限的酒款, 還是得再告訴大家, 有興趣的朋友請盡快回覆您需要的品項與數量, 此次購 滿 2 瓶屆時即享免費宅配服務. 符合宅配條件的朋友請告知您的中文姓名, 宅配地址與聯絡電話. 謝謝大家, 謝謝!!

PS.1: 請注意, 這款酒為現貨酒, 2014.2.24開瓶光復店開始供貨
PS.2: 開瓶希望每次的推薦酒有興趣的朋友都能買到, 但有些品項真的就是太搶手, 在此再次跟所有曾經或即將向隅的朋友致上最深的歉意!!


開瓶餐酒會 --- 義大利Barolo天才釀酒師Marco Parusso首度來台餐酒會


Dear All,

時間:2013.12.01(星期日) 中午:12:00
地點:竹北市光明三路84號 彼刻義式餐酒館(Piccola Enoteca) TEL:03-5586831
名額: 25人
費用: NT$1,500
報名窗口: 這個 E-mail 地址已經被防止灌水惡意程式保護,您需要啟用 Java Script 才能觀看 (Jenny) or 這個 E-mail 地址已經被防止灌水惡意程式保護,您需要啟用 Java Script 才能觀看 (Peggy)
報名電話: 03-5790947

Parusso酒莊的酒我們在兩三個月前就曾辦過一次品酒會, 所有與會的人都對這家Barolo新銳酒莊留下非常好的印象, 加上擁有WSET Level 4(Diploma) 的義籍品酒師Alessandro Zuttioni專業的解說, 讓大家對於Barolo, 甚至是, Barolo與法國Bourgogne(勃根地)的異曲同工之妙, 都有了更深刻的體會!
此次, Parusso酒莊的莊主Marco Parusso的來台處女行, 唯一一場的餐酒會, 留給了開瓶. 我們也選擇了目前新竹地區最夯的義大利餐廳: Piccola 做為餐酒會的舉辦地點. 為了讓餐酒會真正落實餐與酒的琴瑟和鳴, 而不是胡亂瞎配, 我們與主廚Boris花了兩個星期的時間再三的討論與琢磨, 才醞釀出這份與酒款能夠互相輝映的專屬客制化菜單!


PARUSSO Sauvignon Blanc Bricco Rovella DOC 2009


1.普切塔 (野菌, 錢鰻, 雞肝)
Bruschetta mista (mushroom, sea eel & onion jam, chicken liver pate)
2006 PARUSSO Barolo Mariondino DOCG

Risotto al Vino Rosso (This dish will use beef broth and ground veal)
2007 PARUSSO Barolo Mariondino DOCG

Oxtail with lentil
2008 PARUSSO Barolo Mariondino DOCG

Cheese plate

從25年前開始,Marco Parusso跟他的姊妹Tiziana Parusso開始在Monforte d’Alba打造Armando Parusso莊園。許多酒評與愛酒人士都一致認同Marco是皮蒙特屬一屬二的冒險家,不僅僅沈迷於他的葡萄園,更是致力於在釀造方法上超越薄根地。近 期更是嘗試著使用對法國人習以為常但對義大利人來說相當罕見的整串發酵並延遲採收,所釀出的Barolo不僅酒體更完整,香氣更濃郁鮮明,單寧更加柔軟並 且在年輕的時候即可被享用。

這個來自皮蒙特的偏執釀酒師即將在12月1日的中午在新竹彼刻義式餐館以餐酒會的方式呈現不同葡萄品種以及年份的潛力極限,由Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) 攻讀葡萄酒與烈酒的文憑的義籍品酒師Alessandro Zuttioni現場詮釋,帶您一同窺視 “摩登釀造者”帕路梭酒莊的風土、微氣候和其釀造的祕密。


餐酒會 -- 義大利Chianti的有機耕作先驅: Castello di Volpaia


Dear All,

時間: 2013.10.16(星期三) 晚上: 6:30
地點: Buono Bella 義大利餐廳(新竹市南大路525號) 二樓大包廂
名額: 20人
費用: NT$2,200/人
講解: 由Castello di Volpaia酒莊主人的氣質美女女兒Federica Stianti Mascheroni現場說明所有酒款

義大利酒的存在就是為了搭餐, 尤其是Chianti產區的葡萄酒, 更是如此! 有興趣的朋友, 絕不能錯過這場餐酒琴瑟和鳴的義大利饗宴!!

報名請洽: Jenny ( 這個 E-mail 地址已經被防止灌水惡意程式保護,您需要啟用 Java Script 才能觀看 ) 或 Peggy( TEL:03-5790947




全數由Buono Bella主廚陳宥豪特別針對所有品飲酒款客製, 有許多是菜單上沒有的主廚特烹.

義大利火狐酒莊(Castello di Volpaia)是奇楊第地區海拔最高的釀酒廠,位於充滿中世紀風情的弗帕亞村(Volpaia),莊園面績多達900多英畝,酒莊致力於有機耕作,通過 歐盟及美國的認證,是唯一一個美國認可的有機Chianti Classico產區。所生產的葡萄酒出口至全球各地。弗帕亞村興建於11世紀,是一座具有護牆的堡壘型村莊(Terra Murata),至今雖僅剩部份原始防護牆,以及六座塔中的兩座塔屹立在此,但村莊內的中世紀設計與建築物仍保有完整的狀態。弗帕亞村華爾街日報票選義大 利最佳旅遊地點的首選,每年有超過1萬人次參觀。

火狐酒莊的釀酒歷史可追溯到1172年,13世紀,火狐酒莊更是奇楊第聯盟(Lega del Chianti)的創建成員之ㄧ,並以頂級的葡萄酒、橄欖油及醋的釀做聞名於世。1966年義大利印刷商人拉斐爾‧斯提安第(Raffaello Stianti)買下了火狐莊園,以及弗帕亞村莊三分之二的面積,並將酒廠贈送給他最心愛的女兒喬凡娜拉(Giovannella)與新婚夫婿卡羅 (Carlo)作為新婚誌禮。70年帶中期,喬凡娜拉決定將酒廠現代化,但完全不改變11世紀村莊的外觀結構:歷史建築變成酒窖,廢棄的教堂則配備最先進 的不鏽鋼設備,是古典奇楊第地區使用控溫發酵技術的先驅。

此外,他們還安裝了一種令人驚奇的「葡萄酒導管(Wineduct)」,將位於酒廠內的不鏽鋼桶連接至村莊地勢較低的各式酒窖中,而埋藏在人行道深處的酒 管迷宮,將葡萄酒送到村莊內各歷史建築物內的酒窖。由於弗帕亞村受到義大利藝術與文化單位的保護,因此在建造葡萄酒導管的過程中,必須將每塊石頭編號,等 導管鋪設完成後,再將石頭放回原始位置。幾乎每隔五年, 家族都會以最現代化的葡萄酒釀造科技更新酒窖,並且在每年葡萄收成季節更換橡木桶,家族重新種植了大部分的葡萄園,採用最優質的山吉歐維列 (Saugiovese),也在特定的系列中使用老藤來混釀。



開瓶餐酒會 --- 讓時間靜止的酒莊-->西班牙傳奇:Lopez de Heredia(Tondonia)


Dear All,

這家酒莊能夠來[開瓶]辦餐酒會, 我本人是十分充滿期待的! 這個林裕森大師在[西班牙葡萄酒]一書中所描述的"讓時間靜止的酒莊", 我有幸於去年年中前往西班牙做了一個深度的拜訪. 姑且不論那些現代酒廠難以理解的古董級釀酒設備與方法, 光是那長達約一公里(不太確定, 只記得走了好久:P), 藏酒約八百萬瓶的酒窖"隧道", 和隧道盡頭柳暗花明又一村的湖光山色, 就足以令人驚嘆連連!! Lopez de Heredia, 仍堅持100年前的釀酒方式, 如同一座活生生的葡萄酒博物館!!

或許大家還無法親身前往, 但若品嘗了Lopez de Heredia的酒款後, 定會認同Lopez de Heredia被稱為"時間的大師"真是當之無愧!!因為他們家酒瓶裡裝的, 正是那樣的百年滋味. 難怪知名葡萄酒的作家 Neal Martin 在品嘗Vina Todonia Blanco Gran Reserva後, 會情不自禁的感動落淚了.

by 林裕森

時間: 2013.09.23(星期一)晚上 7:00
地點: Living One篤行館(Add.:新竹市篤行路一號 TEL.:03-5775252)
名額: 40人
費用: NT$2,990/人
講師: 酒廠代表 Ms. Maria Vincente

報名請洽: 03-5790947
Jenny: 這個 E-mail 地址已經被防止灌水惡意程式保護,您需要啟用 Java Script 才能觀看
Peggy: 這個 E-mail 地址已經被防止灌水惡意程式保護,您需要啟用 Java Script 才能觀看

菜單 & 酒單:


北海道干貝 & 堅果橙香乳酪

Hokkaido scallops & Nuts Orange cheese

搭配酒款:Vina Gravonia Blanco Crianza 2003


沙拉  Salad


Matsuzaka Pork and Grape Salad

搭配酒款:Vina Tondonia Blanco Reserva 1996


主廚精選例湯Daily Special Soup


Loofah soup

搭配酒款:Vina Tondonia Blanco Reserva 1996



Water Shield Vinegar Drink


熱前菜Hot appetizer


Pan-fried duck foie gras and raspberry

搭配酒款(I):Vina Cubillo Tinto 2005

搭配酒款(II):Vina Tondoia Tinto Reserva 2001


Main course


Grilled Angus tenderloin with porcini sauce

搭配酒款(I):Vina Bosconia Tinto Gran Reserva 1981

搭配酒款(II):Vina Tondonia Tinto Gran Reserva 1994



Plated desserts


Coffee, Japanese green tea, black tea, milk tea or

herbal tea (Caffeine-Free)



開瓶品酒會 --- 從Barolo喝出Piemonte風土民情和Parusso的偏執


Dear All,

時間: 2013.08.29 (四) 晚上 6:30
地點: 開瓶光復店(新竹市光復路一段89巷128號)
名額: 10人
費用: NT$1,000/人

皮蒙特(Piemonte),直譯是 山腳,坐落在義大利半 島的西北方,跨過阿爾卑斯山脈即為法國領土。因其在地理位置以及文化上趨近法國,皮蒙特長期在歐洲思維的熏陶下,相較於義大利其他地區來的繁榮富裕,可想 而知的,在農藝技術的投入上比它地來的穩定,並且在發酵、熟成的技術以及發現最適合種植當地獨特葡萄品種的區域上有著相當大的進步。選擇單一葡萄品種而非 混釀,更可以進一步看出皮蒙特與勃根地的關係親密。

25年前開始,Marco Parusso跟他的姊妹Tiziana Parusso開始在Monforte d’Alba打造Armando Parusso莊園。許多酒評與愛酒人士都一致認同Marco是皮蒙特屬一屬二的冒險家,不僅僅沈迷於他的葡萄園,更是致力於在釀造方法上超越勃根地。近期更是嘗試著使用對法國人習以為常但對義大利人來說相當罕見的整串發酵並延遲採收,所釀出的Barolo不僅酒體更完整,香氣更濃郁鮮明,單寧更加柔軟並且在年輕的時候即可被享用。

這星期五的品酒會將由在Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) 攻讀葡萄酒與烈酒的文憑的義大利品酒師Alessandro Zuttioni跟您分享來自Parusso的四種Barolo,皮蒙特的冒險家針對不同葡萄園的嘔心瀝血之作,帶您一同窺視 摩登釀造者”Parusso酒莊的風土、微氣候和其釀造的祕密。


1.Parusso, Barolo DOCG 2007 NT$2,490

RP 90pt
JS 91pt
葡萄品種:100% Nebbiolo

2.Parusso, Barolo Mariondino DOCG 2008 NT$2,990
RP 94pt (Vintage 2008)
RP 94pt (Vintage 2007)
WS 93pt (Vintage 2006)
品酒評註:介於磚紅色與石榴色之間,由相當濃郁的乾玫瑰、香草、大地以及熱帶水果的香氣引領,慢慢的發展成香蕉和迷人的香蕉油氣味,這樣的香味是世界上最 好的巴羅洛的標準香氣。隨著深紅色的覆盆莓開始,一系列的滋味在口腔中引爆,茴香、乾玫瑰、煙薰風味隨之而來。極佳的深度以及強烈程度隨著花香的結尾盪氣 迴腸!

3.Parusso, Barolo Le Coste Mosconi DOCG 2008 NT$3,600

RP 95pt

4.Parusso, Barolo Bussia DOCG 2008 NT$ 3,900

RP 95pt


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